Author: Saadut
•9:42 PM


 
Long before Facebook existed, the local social networks of Kashmir ran an extensive web of updates, discussions and social inclusiveness. In Kashmir when most of the basic services and occupations were still ‘Kosher’ you had the local native barber whose joint would be the hub of all political and news discussions. The local ‘navied’ would be a political expert who would rhyme his fingers over haircuts with political discussions, opinions and economic discourse. His expertise would encompass both local and the world beyond the state from whatever latency prone news that seeped in those days of a ‘non public internet’ world.


My earliest childhood recollection was Aziz Joo who was a regular at our house for attending the barber services of my father. Aziz Joo wore a white ‘dastaar’ (turban) which was more roundish than oval and perfectly matched with his fair face. His long ‘pheran’ had a loose fit with an almost left of corner opening at the top with no buttons, his ‘pheran’ often meticulously clean and ironed. His ‘arsenal’ would be arranged in a wooden box that had black leather straps, which he carried along always. He would not only carry with him his barber services but also news and happenings from across the dwellings. I later heard he would also be sought in other parts to care blemishes or boils, the local dermatologist kind of, his primary prescription would be the ‘malhaam’ a strong variant of the belladonna patch. A man of medium height with dark eyebrows and wide eyes, his pace would be fast for his feet size, often brisk for those calculated timings of his work and attendance. He carried with him a great sense of wit that rarely came to fore in the presence of Dad, he would be of restricted speak in front of him, but would have quick replies to Dad’s inquests. Dad respected Aziz Joo for the wisdom he carried and the knowledge he exhibited, he understood more of the Kashmir political scene that some of the current dynasty political heirs could ever know. Dad narrated an incident that Aziz Joo had been witness to very early. When Sheikh had been dethroned and Bakshi took over in Kashmir, J&K Armed Police had been deployed in parts of internal Srinagar, who were restricting movements of civilians in the city. Kabir’e an old bachelor used to live with his brothers family (his brother’s wife was named Bakhti). On this particular day Kabir’e had ventured out and was stopped near Khanyar by the Armed Police, the lathis were up and the blows were next to fall in place ‘Kouan hai’ (Who are you) shouted the Armed Police, ‘Main Bakhti ka droui houn’ (I am the brother In-law of Bakhti). The policemen who were from Jammu would not comprehend much of Kashmiri understood ‘Bakhti’ to be ‘Bakshi’ and gave him easy passage.


When I grew up the ‘not so far away’ barber Manzoor was the style haunt for local boys; that is before I had been sent to the boarding school. His own hair style was a peculiar mix of two Hindi film heroes; you could not be sure which two although.  But that mix and match was not what he did with the hair styles of boys, his finger created almost that perfect cut you demanded, but not before he had given you an overdose of his recommendations. A slim man of medium height, he would always dress business like, from old bell bottoms to the then in rage parallels, you could not help but marvel his sense of style. Manzoor was well versed with the happenings of the state’s political scene, all the repertoire and more of it were familiar with him. His shop was the Facebook wall for the local boys, where status updates were posted more frequently, where the feeds would run nonstop for the ‘who and where’ of this small closely knit local society. 
The newspapers on his shop would change more hands, would get more hits then than a small web page would get in present times. The colour of these newspaper edges would go brownish dark by the evening, by the shuffling of multiple readers who devoured on them. But more than the news that was written on these newspapers were the narratives held on and by this barber shop. It knew the local social trends, was aware of the social pursuits and kept the secrets of many households in these dwellings. It was the virtual local google then. His shop had wide mirrors, stacked with shelves on either side that had genuine ‘Old Spice’ unlike ‘Old Skice’ the fake cousin of this after shave that adorns the bhaiyaa run barber shops now in Srinagar. The present barber shops know nothing of our societies, so disconnected from this land they are that they don’t even know how to pronounce the names of local places, the ‘e in Noet’e (Nowhatta) or the Habb’e Kadal often missed by them. The modern barber shops have been reduced to automated scissors that treat all human specimens as to be sheared sheep, subject to the same geometric compass cut.  


During my once in a year holidays from boarding, I would never miss an opportunity to get Manzoor do the hair honors, back there we had be forced to do a ‘no hair must grasp in hand’ student haircut in school.  It was in one of these visits that I found out that Manzoor had also become the local database for the torments of conflict in this area. He had infact even kept a copies of old magazines which spoke of peaceful times Kashmir. He also kept the virtual count of ‘pain, migration, survival and death’ during the conflict. In good old days, I heard, he would also act as the part time match maker, more often as a social service with some economic benefits. But now the match making scene was dismal, with most of the boys either already been lost to conflict or the living boys lost to joblessness and economic deprivation. With conflict migration taking precedence, families migrated from villages to cities and from central city to suburbs, the brokerage business for new and rental property came into vogue, an opportunity he grasped soon. He soon converted into the local ‘Yellow Pages’ indexing most of the migrations and ‘to let’ positions in nearby vicinities.  But soon violence outside left deep scars on him and soon withdrew into reclusiveness. Ransoms had been paid to shadows, but the nocturnal knocks he imagined, had not ceased. The local social network had soon shut shop.


Now the city has imported workforce, bollywood poster beaming salons filled with the smell of cheap cologne, but you will see no connections to this land, to this society coming from these shops. They have now tagged the local customers by wallet count, names are not remembered, and the old human social networks exist no more.  



~ S ~ 
 

18th Dec 2011


Author: Saadut
•12:04 PM

 

 

Scrambling red pomegranate in a white bone china bowl grabbed my attention like a silent fuchsia and reminded me of her red painted nails that she would tap inattentively on the coffee mug, while her gaze was lost in some unseen wilderness beyond the window view. She often ordered her coffee hot but wound slowly in its sips, spreading the coffee drinking ritual over epochs of time, till the coffee would drop dead cold by the time it emptied. Was she trying to read something in those delayed sips of coffee or narrating some incomprehensible tales to the coffee mug, I never found out. Her face would stay still for a brief, like figuring out how to come out of a tangled puzzle, and then all of sudden she would drop that stern mask in gracious smiles. And those smiles would have the power to erase much ache and frown, pulling you inside her beaming aura.

Except for the occasional nail polish, I never saw her putting any other makeup. The baby like face would need no maquillage or facial layers to pretend what she was not. With a shoulder cut hair, combed neatly backwards and wearing a no jewelry attitude, she would slip into a tomboyish look in cotton trousers and floral shirts with the same ease that would transform into an ethnic diva in those Indian outfits.

I first noticed her one early morning during my second week at the Tech Univ hostel, which overlooked a running track close to a rectangular garden, bordering the bakers. A new city in an alien country would wake me up early, slow steps towards the balcony and a lazed watch over a breaking morning. Early risers would already be on their morning walk, some in groups, she would walk alone, brisk yet calm and smiling. But those days I would be more interested in unraveling a distant view of the city that lay beyond the walk bridge and the cable car, over the narrow gorge, a city I was to make home for the next 5 years.

Some days later at the hostel community grocery store, I first saw her up-close in a purple Lactose T-shirt, unassuming in an alluring smile that looked away from strangers. In her cellophane shopping bag I could notice the carelessly stuffed Columbian coffee that sat tilted on top of chocolates and some lemonade. While my friend was busy in converting the grocery prices into Indian rupees, sensing my prudence in staring at a stranger (she also was presumably my senior), I immediately turned back.

More than three months had passed since I had joined the Univ, and my routine of early morning lazing on the balcony had been interrupted by extended classes and some late night sleep. Hostels are notorious for chasing nights into extended evenings, with gatherings, talk, gibberish that reveled in some strange unaccountable student life freedom. Such extended evenings that trespassed over nights would often rob us of early morning chirrup and lonely aurora smiles. First snow fall of an early November evening had sprinkled some new hues to the landscape. In simmering evening lights snow fell like thin curtains of fine muslin, that seem to be falling in reams and disappearing on impact. As I hurried shook my exposed arms in a sleeves sweater, running over invisible pools that pushed water in a squirt on impact. In a camel brown jacket, hands in pockets, she walked slowly by the side of the walk bridge, occasionally looking up towards the sky as if smiling in the face of falling snow flakes.  I paused, looked at street light flare that seemed to warm her, resumed to more pace and rushed to the warm confines of my room. She paused, looked away towards the narrow gorge, staring in the infinite of an invading winter, as if holding reams of this winter muslin on her face and heaving quietly to some invisible feel.

The snow was unrelenting for almost three days, spreading out thick carpets of white that stood drawn by odd motifs of standing green trees and footmarks that looked like ant queues on human frequented tracks. The classes went off from the second day of this snowfall, in preparation of our first semester exams, hence extended evenings had to draw a close and nights returned to a studious calendar. Mornings started with black coffee over crisp local bread and Beatles, Sting or Roxette in loop. On one such wintry days when everybody rushed in dull winter colors, the common buffet two blocks away from my building was already full. Jostling in bulging winter attire, balancing our food plates, me and my friend walked to the other end of the buffet in search of a seat, found one by the western window where she was sitting in silence. I excused, she smiled and I sat down. My friend frowned, found no option and continued to stand.

“Indian?” I asked, “Yes” she nodded, “and you?”, “the unrecognized Indian” I said.

“Is that a critique?” she asked.

“Reality” I replied, “I understand” she smiled in recognition.  

Nodding to my assertion she continued with her food plate that had sparingly been consumed, as my friend Aadil had found an empty chair somewhere, pulled it alongside and started munching voraciously.

By the first week of March as winter was still spread out like an old rug that bore brunt of some rough wear and tear in odd exposed patches and spring bloom was spouting in baring branches, students had started to return from winter holidays. A few days after I had resumed classes, we were walking on the foot bridge, she holding some LP disks, I holding a desire to talk to her. She stopped by the bridge railings looked towards the gorge steep, in a musing sigh like inhaling some deep breath extracting spring freshness from the bloom. As I waited to withdraw my steps, she turned back smilingly “so you arrived from Kashmir”. I saw the winter ice breaking, and smiled in the affirmative. We walked the bridge, some part in silences, and some part in my fumbling words. “What music is that?” I said, grasping for conversation. “Classical”, “you want to listen?” as she extended two LP disks towards me. The unwillingly wiling in me grabbed the disks and continued to walk in muteness till the apartment ways parted. She waved briefly, her red painted nails creating mosaics in air, drawing images that she must have been searching in the distances of the gorge where she would often stand alone by the fringes of the walk bridge.

Back in the room the LP disks read “Tchaikovsky Symphony Number 2 in C minor” and “Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, The Piano Concerto No. 1 in B-flat minor (Op. 23).

Having no idea what the disks contained, I mounted the first one on the disk player and sunk into incomprehensible acoustics that sounded more like some band to me. The local wedding band, I told myself, played better than this, and laughed at my own folly of grabbing these disks when words had failed to find meanings with her. The drag of a day ensured that night assumed early and sleep sunk like a dog. Early morning I paced to the balcony anticipating to see her walking the morning, mounting the second disk (The Piano Concerto No. 1). For many days the disk kept playing early morning by my balcony, but there was no sight of her.

Later next week, on a flowering spring day, I saw her walking by the ‘Philharmonia’ (Philharmonic) and offered a coffee in the Turkish café that was close by. In the café she chose a window that overlooked winding steps dotted with flowering vases rioting in colors, as her red finger nails tapped unwritten songs on the coffee cup. “You seem to have taken a liking for “The Piano Concerto No. 1” she remarked. I was baffled that she knew what had been playing on my balcony in mornings, even when she was not to be seen in her morning walks. “You like this music?” I asked. “I like all kinds of music” paused long “especially the music of silences.” Back then having a faint comprehension about the notes of silences, I kept quiet. “Every note emancipates from silence. Every word and music was written from a point of blankness, from an idea that spouted in a quiet mind” she said looking into her coffee cup, like stirring some tempest from quietude. “For every note that was ever played there is an equal or more brief of a quiet rest that preludes or follows the note. We hear the note, ignore the silence, while as it is the silence that identifies the note.” I could feel the unspoken being expressed.

“Learn to understand the silences and you will have a whole new meaning to words” as she looked beyond the winding steps is some unknown quest, while her red finger nails slowly tapped an unheard melody on the cup edges. As I attempted to look beyond the steps in silence, I could imagine boutonnieres lined up where I had seen small vases sometime back. “The boutonnieres you imagine are your silences speaking” she said, as I almost fell off my chair stunned. Was she reading my mind or was she so accustomed to these silences that she knew each sequence of this mind plot?

 

In days to come this friend became a life teacher for me, unraveling the paradoxes of life. The disks were never returned, kept at her insistence as memories of a time. Four years later her meaningful silences went silent forever, leaving a silent but crying void. Meanwhile the foot bridge keeps gazing over the open gorge, seeking voices and notes of yesteryears, in silences.

Years later, I can still see the foot bridge in my imaginations, the two of us walking over it in our speaking silences, she then pausing over the railing, looking in the distances of the hills, lost in some meditating like thoughts, while I am trying to make sense of the clouds in the horizon those seem to have stopped their westward movements momentarily, trying to read her thoughts.   

 

 

~Saadut~  

(Written in 2006)

 

 

 

Author: Saadut
•9:21 AM


In the narrow inter woven lanes of down town Khanyar, Srinagar in Kashmir is a small non- descript shrine of a medieval Muslim saint Youza Asaf also called the Rosabal shrine, the name of the locality also being Rosabal. This shrine is in the close vicinity of one of most revered shrines in Kashmir that of “Sheikh Abdul Qadir Jeelani” also known locally as “Dastageer Sahab”. The Rosabal shrine of Youza Asaf could pass as just another of the hundreds of shrines dotting Kashmir with its Kashmiri architectural roof, typical to most shrines in its choice of green and white, central rising dome with multi tier slopes; had it not been for the renewed interest generated in this shrine by global media and foreign visitors. In the Rosabal shrine the graves of the two saints exist, enclosed within a wooden chamber and the grave stones covered with a green cloth. 





 
According to the care takers of the tomb, both graves of the Rosabal shrine belong to Muslim saints, one of who is a medieval Muslim saint Syed Nasserudin and the other is Saint Youza Asaf. Saint Youza Asaf is reported to have arrived in Kashmir in 30AD, and of late it is this tomb of Saint Youza Asaf that has become a must visit on the travel itinerary of many foreign tourists to Kashmir, many of them believing that Jesus Christ survived the crucifixion, travelled to Kashmir and lies buried at the Rosabal Shrine under his adopted name of Youza Asaf.  However in Kashmir the locals have rejected these theories, maintaining that the site has two famous Muslim saints buried there.


Are these rumors new founded? The idea of Jesus in Kashmir has been making rounds for more than a century. Russian war correspondent Nicolas Notovitch claims to have visited Leh (in north Kashmir) and learnt about the “Life of Saint Issa” (Issa is the name of Jesus Christ), a text which was later published in French as “La vie inconnue de Jesus Christ” (1894). According to Nicholai Notovich during his travels to Leh (North part of Kashmir) he met Lamas in the monastery who in exchange for an alarm clock and a thermometer, was shown a manuscript which had references about the story of "Issa a traveler from Israel", who had visited this part about 2000 years ago. However the claims of Nicolas Notovitch were contradicted by Archibald Douglas (then a teacher at the Agra Government College in British India) who visited Hemis monastery at Leh in 1895 and claimed that there was no evidence that Notovitch had even been there. Swami Abhedananda a disciple of Swami Ramakrishna travelled to Leh (north Kashmir) in 1922, claimed to have been shown the manuscript having references to “Life of Saint Issa” by the lama, and translated that part of the manuscript, reference for which is found in the book “Journey into Kashmir and Tibet” by Swami Abhedananda. 


According to the propagators of the Rosabal legend, Jesus travelled with his mother Mary, who after being weakened by the tough travel in her old age died in Murre (name of the town resembling Mary) in Pakistan. Murre is 170 kilometers west of Srinagar and close to Rawalpindi. As per the same legend Jesus is said to have entered Kashmir from passes over the meadows of Yusmarg (or Yuzmarg, marg meaning meadow)  which is about 40 kilometers south of Srinagar. 


Ahmadiya sect, claims that Jesus died a natural death and is buried in Kashmir. The book “Jesus in Heaven on Earth” by a leading member of the Ahmadiya sect, Khawaja Nazir Ahmad in 1952 writes about the 'journey of Jesus Christ to Kashmir' to preach to the lost tribes of Israel (the Kashmiri’s) and about 'his death and burial in Kashmir’.


In 1973 a local journalist Aziz Kashmiri in his book “Christ in Kashmir” claimed that Jesus was buried in Kashmir and died here at the age of 120. The writer has since passed away but his book continues to rekindle the legend. 


Professor Fida Hassnain a former director of Archives, Archaeology, Research and Museums for Jammu and Kashmir claims Kashmiri’s originate from the "10 missing tribes of Israel" and that was the reason Jesus chose Kashmir as his destination, to preach among his own people. Prof Hassnain claims that Kashmiri’s were driven out of Israel by the Assyrians in around 720 BC and came to settle here (in the new countries) after that. Incidentally Prof Fida Hassnain has also co-authored a book “Roza Bal, Beyond the Da Vinci Code” with Suzanne Olsson. Olsson also claims that the connection between Kashmir and Jewish traditions is strengthened by the presence of graves of the Prophet Moses and his brother Aaron at Bandipora and Harwan in Kashmir.


Sir Francis Younghusband, who was the then representative of the British crown to the Dogra king of Kashmir, in his writings ‘Kashmir’ (published in London 1909) wrote (page 112): “Here may be seen fine old patriarchal types, just as we picture to ourselves the Israelitish heroes of old. Some, indeed, say… that these Kashmiri’s are the lost tribes of Israel and certainly, as I have already said, there are real Biblical types to be seen everywhere in Kashmir and especially among the upland villages. Here the Israelites Shepherd tending his flocks and herds may any day be seen.”


According to some reports Kashmiri or Kashahmiri are Hebrew words and an attributive name of the Israelites. The root is Kas(h)ah, similar to the Arabic kashiya. Famous Arab traveler and historian El Bironi in the 12th century wrote, "In the past, permission to enter Kashmir was given only to Jews." There is yet another legend which speaks of King Solomon having reached Kashmir Valley and aided the people of Kashmir in successfully regulating the main river of Kashmir (Jehlum). In fact according to same legend the name of Shankracharya hill located in central Srinagar is Takht-e-Sulieman (the mount or throne of Solomon). Of course there is a majority who disagree with the legend of ‘King Solomon’.
 

(A late 1800's photograph of Shankracharya Hill, then captioned 'Solomons Throne') 
 

Mullah Nadiri in “Tarikh-i-Kashmir” (History of Kashmir written in 1420) writes about how the existing Hindu structure on Takht-e-Sulieman (now Shankracharya hill) was restored by a Persian architect during the reign of Raja Gopadatta (79-109 AD) and during the renovation, the following was found inscribed on the steps in old Persian: “Dar-een wagt YuzAsaf dawa-i-paighambar-imikunad.  Sal panjah wa chahar”. This translates into “At this time, Yuz Asaf announced his prophetic mission.  In the year 54." And also was found inscribed “Aishan Yuzu paighambar-i-bani israil ast” which again translates into "He is Yuzu, the Prophet of the Children of Israel." The inscriptions of the temple stand since destroyed but may have been recorded by other historians as well. A pillar next to the temple was torn down in the later part of the last century after the temple had already been renovated, and a TV transmission tower was erected in later years.


Locals at Rosabal, Khanyar in Srinagar claim that in 2002 American Suzzane Marie attempted to desecrate the shrine by wanting to start digging and exhume the remains of the saints, which was not allowed by the locals as it is considered UnIslamic. Following strong protests from the locals for hurting their religious sentiments, she had to leave Kashmir. Since then the sanctum sanctorum of the Rosabal shrine has been closed and is opened for locals only on rare occasions.


According to Sam Miller (BBC correspondent) if legend is to be believed Jesus attended a famous Buddhist meeting held at a Buddhist Monastery, at Chandapora near Harwan, in the north of Srinagar city (site is also called ‘the Buddha site’) in 80AD. The site is known as a historical place of Buddhist learning and also for its Buddhist artifacts and terracotta.


In its edition for Indian subcontinent Lonely Planet made a mention of the Rosabal shrine and the legend associated with it, however with a disclaimer. The disclaimer not withstanding, this entry in ‘Lonely Planet’ has had a cascading effect with foreign tourists flocking to the area at downtown Srinagar in search of the tomb. Pertinently in the Bible there is no record of Jesus Christ’s life from the age of 12 to 30, a period also known as “the missing years”, most Christians believing that Jesus lived in Nazareth during that period. It is during this “the missing years” period that the propagators of the legend of ‘Jesus at Rosabal’ claim that Jesus had travelled to Kashmir.

 
In fact the historical pointers or references available, including the reported Buddhist manuscript at Leh, the inscriptions found at Takht-e-Sulieman (Shakracharya hill), similarity of Jewish words in Kashmiri, do not prove his burial legend at Rosabal : they could  however at the most  just come close to the legend of his visiting Kashmir and then going back to Nazareth.


And if you still are trying to make an opinion about the claims of Jesus in Kashmir remember there have been other claims of Jesus visiting parts of world including England, for which famous poet William Blake had said "And did those feet in ancient time, walk upon England's mountains green? And was the holy Lamb of God on England's pleasant pastures seen?"


In his film “And Did Those Feet“ Dr Gordon Strachan (Church of Scotland minister) claims that it is "plausible" that Jesus came to England for his studies 2,000 years ago and may have visited  Penzance, Falmouth, St-Just-in-Roseland and Looe, (in Cornwall) and also Glastonbury (in Somerset) where legends of Jesus do exist. But all of these fables and assumptions of Jesus visiting Kashmir and / or England have not been backed by any concrete evidence hence remain as just stories.


Both Muslims and Christians dismiss the rumors of Jesus buried at Rosabal shrine and claim them to be blasphemous, Christians believing that Jesus was crucified and Muslims believing that Jesus was taken to God: both religions also believing in the second coming of Jesus Christ. Some locals claim this rumor was started by local businessmen and shopkeepers to attract foreign tourists and the rumor got a flip after being mentioned in Lonely Planet. Even professional historians dismiss the rumors as baseless, but then the legend has already found its way into tourist guides, numerous documentaries and books. The Rosabal legend has already inspired a fiction thriller “Rozabal line” by Ashwin Sanghi, a sort of sequel to Dan Brown's “Da Vinci Code”.


Fact or fiction, but the legend around the shrine has aroused renewed interest in this place that has long been hot bed of turmoil and been befit of any major economic activity. The legend of Rosabal could have far reaching results for the tourist traffic in Kashmir. If the legend continues to grow the foreign tourist traffic could register a steep growth. However the interest in the tomb has to be separated and segregated from efforts to desecrate it, which could inflame religious passions locally. Science can surely find alternate ways of establishing the truth related to the legend of Rosabal, without disturbing the peace of the saints buried there. 


The claims and the legend regarding Jesus in Kashmir have not been based on any concrete evidence till now and any linking the Jesus legend to Kashmir will need concrete scientific basis than mere books, documentaries and hearsay.  Till that time the legend of Jesus in Kashmir will continue to lure travelers to the Rosabal shrine in Srinagar, Kashmir, and writers will continue to weave stories around the fable. 
  
 
 
~ S ~ 

May 23rd, 2011
 


My Personal belief is:

"That they said (in boast), "We killed Christ Jesus the son of Mary, the Messenger of Allah";- but they killed him not, nor crucified him, but so it was made to appear to them, and those who differ therein are full of doubts, with no (certain) knowledge, but only conjecture to follow, for of a surety they killed him not:-
Nay, Allah raised him up unto Himself; and Allah is Exalted in Power, Wise;-
—Holy Qur'an, (An Nisa 157-158)





Author: Saadut
•8:37 PM


          You will find plenty of book reviews for all kind of written material. From cookery books, kiddy stuff to those heavy literary classics. But very rarely do we see Book shop reviews, probably we never want to read what these treasure stores would want to convey to us. Our hunting minds wander thru racks & rows, wanting to search out a new refreshing read or wanting to find that looked after print.

          My city is a small unit, till recently not plagued by endless malls and heaps of shoppers tippling on top of each other in those multi storied robotic expanses. Back in time the shopping areas of my city did not aim at copying modern tastes of architecture by implementing monstrous structures in cement and iron but lately my city too has been ravaged by winds of ‘westernized shopping block change’ in its own way. Traditionalism taken over by sick counters and tight passage-ed shopper spaces, showcases crying out vulgar distasteful, invert hanging stuff and heaps of fake modernity. My childhood the shops had a serene ambiance to them, price tags were not sticker-ed on top of each other and discounts like 40+50% seemed fraud.

          In my childhood of all the shops, my favorite used to be the book shop on Residency Road, an extended space with treasures inside. On the next floor of the book shop was the Indian Coffee Shop. Unlike the modern day coffee joints where couple sweet talk or corporate fake smiles and pretentious reign, this was a different world in a cosmic existence of its own. The coffee shop would be frequented by writers, journalists, professors & a whole lot of intellectuals for their slow sip -multi talk chatter. The furniture here was plain and simple but could be no match for the level of talk heard here. I still remember the simple poster on the wall of the coffee shop, which in many ways portrayed the openness offered. Such joints today would be called a waste of precious real estate, but then such ideas & the simple intellect as were nourished in those days have become a rarity now. The proximity of the coffee shop to the ‘book shop’ gave the book shop part of its clientele. The other clientele of the book shop being the foreigners who were more interested in those color glossy travel books and the picturesque Kashmir postcards. My interest in the book shop would be for the precious Enid Blyton, Lewis Carroll, Mark Twain’s stuff. How prized those dreamy books were for me like virtual trophies of a conquest, of precious possessions; of something I was proud of calling my own. Every visit to this store I would sneak into the ‘heavy books’ just to see what the grown ups were looking into. The Jane Austin, Dickens, GB Shaw, HG Wells, Munro, Jane Austin, Walter Scott: all shared their own spaces with each other. It was only some years later when I high school that I swam into these oceans. The book shop surely exhibited no light effects of the modern disciplined book store counterparts. The wooden racks and the stack of books on the sides were guided to by poor lights by today’s standards. You need to squeeze into a tight gaze to tide thru the treasures in these rows. The only books that could be easily found were the traveler & hobbyist ones since their cover cried for colored attention. But the book shop owner carried the index of all these treasures in his mind. If you seemed lost in the maze, he could direct you through your search with his eyes closed. Human mind did score upon modern machines here.

          My visits to the shop became once a year affair as soon I ventured westwards for studies. My vacation visits to Kashmir would be incomplete without a visit to the book shop, even though I would not purchase much from here, the book shop staying immune & unaltered by the change happening in book stores in the outside world. During the start of turmoil years as the coffee shop shut & the visitors to valley evaporated, the book shop wore dull attire. I could see the pain in the emptiness of the book shop, the cries of outside agony overran the vacant spaces. The books seemed to have taken my homelands grief on to themselves, for the rack huddle of Wells, Munro, Shaw and their counterparts seemed in its uneasy form in the book shop. On these rare visits whenever I touched the books on the racks they cried of relentless agony. The ‘Reginald of Saki’ had lost his satirical touch & ‘Clovis’ was less impressive now. Sometimes in my vagueness I would climb the stairs of the coffee shop, knowing that it was lost to time, but hoping that with a miracle I could reinvent it in its old form. Perhaps the Munro, Dostoevsky, Turgenev, Lamb, Ruskin’s had not been able to shake off the Enid Blyton in me. Did I refuse to let go the ‘magic faraway tree’ into childhood fantasy & imagination?

          What probably the violent years down the road & across the square could not do, capitalism did. Many years back the book shop was taken over and transformed. The last of the Mohican's had fallen down.
 
          The other book shop that I now frequent resembles plain geometric shapes. Automated indexes, a computer operator directing by machine assistance and the cold air stares me in the face. I buy books in this book shop; I cannot buy imagination & peace of mind.
 
          I yearn for the old days in Kashmir, I yearn for peace. 



~ S ~ 
 
 
Srinagar
16th Feb 2011